A decade of idolizing thick, Brooke Shields–style brows is coming to an end. Thin brows are back in the limelight, thanks to recent sightings on Maison Margiela and Marni show floors. Some beauty enthusiasts are delighted with the retro reference to the ’90s, while others, particularly those who went through the age of overplucking, are a tad apprehensive. However, there is a silver lining: skinny brows are today’s trend in a more accommodating and less uptight form than in their previous existence.
Celebrity brow expert Anastasia Soare describes the fresh take on the trend isn’t about mimicking the past. “Today’s skinny brow is not a true reenactment of what happened in the ’90s,” she advises. “You don’t need to be along for the ride if you’re not feeling it.” Translation: it’s a choose-your-own-adventure trend.
We’re experiencing a wider beauty interest in everything ’90s, from frosted eye shadow to shiny brown lips. But as opposed to make-up that you can wipe away, brows are more difficult to re-set once pulled out. Soare warns against acting rashly: “Those of us who lived through the initial domination of the skinny brow will be the first to say—exercise extreme caution. The hair does not always grow back.”
Brows form the basis of facial architecture. As Chanel brow artist Jimena Garcia explains, “The correct brow shape and colour can open up the eyes, make you appear more awake and younger, or even lift your cheekbones.” Thankfully, today’s slender brows don’t need tweezers. Garcia suggests recreating a thinner appearance with brow gels that have a strong hold or high-pigment make-up, as observed on the theatrical Spring 2025 Marni runway.
If you wish to push further, colour play is on the up too. Bleached brows—formerly the preserve of Chloë Sevigny in the late ’90s—have returned, adopted by stars such as Dua Lipa and Lady Gaga. You don’t have to go full-on bleach either; sweep concealer through a spoolie for a fleeting effect. Make-up artist Marcelo Gutierrez also suggests tailoring the “bleach” colour. On deeper complexions, I apply honey or caramel tones to reduce the contrast,” he explains.
Coloured brows are also in vogue. Kristie Streicher, co-founder of LA beauty salon Striiike, is thrilled by the inventiveness she’s witnessing: “People are getting adventurous with everything from bold colours to pastels.” But she warns against jeopardizing brow health: try it out, sure—but not on the backs of your natural hairs.
Today’s brow products really take care of your brows. Brow gels now have skincare-inspired ingredients such as glycerin and seed oils to keep hairs healthy and strong. “I love the fact that people are taking care of their brows the same way they take care of their skin,” says Garcia.
So when can we tweeze? Soare advises her signature “Golden Ratio” method: begin your brow higher than the center of your nostril, put your arch level with the nose and iris, and finish at the outer edge of your eye. AR effects on apps like TikTok can assist in tracing this out on your face before you even lift a tweezers to your brows.
For bolder experimenters, Garcia recommends creating a mood board with brow styles you love—particularly ones on like-faces. Some beauty experts even shaved portions of their brows last year to lift the eyes—but Streicher cautions against going too far. “If you’ve shaved or overplucked, don’t touch them for three to four months. Allow your natural shape to return.”
Thanks to a more inclusive beauty landscape, brow services have also evolved. “Tinting is great for naturally filling sparse areas,” Streicher says. Lamination, which lifts and sets brow hairs in place, can keep brows looking fluffy for up to eight weeks. Microblading, while effective for long-lasting definition, has traditionally been difficult to reverse—until now. “We’ve introduced a minimally invasive pigment-removal service for those with microblading regrets,” Streicher shares. “It removes pigment gently, no lasers needed.”
At the end of the day, trends are meant to be sources of inspiration—not how-to guides. “There’s no one ‘right’ brow,” Garcia reiterates. “The beauty of today’s trends is having the freedom to explore and to celebrate all brow shapes. There’s beauty in every brow.”
